Our time in Greenland was dominated by three deep Atlantic low-pressure zones which funnelled very strong NNE winds down the coast accompanied by abundant precipitation. It was unseasonably warm, so this fell as rain, which is no fun on a snow camping, ski experience.
The first low delayed our departure from Matt and Helen’s island of comfort in Kulusuk. We eventually made it out using an eclectic mix of waterborne and terrestrial craft. Tents were pitched and polar bear protocol rigidly adhered to. It continued to rain.
Low number two announced its arrival in the middle of our camping adventure. ‘What to do’ as the Russians say? Breakfast debate led to a 50:50 split with Gao, the local Greenlander, using his casting vote. We packed up and headed for Kulusuk pronto. There we spent two days indoors sheltering from forty knot winds and a downpour. At least we weren’t in tents.
The final weather system meant that all flights were cancelled and so we couldn’t leave. We were stuck in Greenland. Listening to ferocious gusts and rain hammering against the windows I think we were all just happy not to be trying to fly in such weather. Irish fails, croissants and bread were baked, books were read, guitars played, and the time passed.
The weather wasn’t all bad and on the good days the scenery and views were magnificent. Just look at the photos. It was also very interesting staying in Kulusuk learning a little about the locals. Their way of life is under huge pressure from the outside world and from climate change.